Replace a HPM Switch with Clipsal Saturn and LED lighting

Replace a HPM Switch with Clipsal Saturn and LED lighting

Here we have a white marble splash back, which looks great, but unfortunately, it has old HPM power points on it. So, we’re going to upgrade down to the Clipsal’s Saturn range and just see there, the difference between the two of them.

The Clipsal’s Saturn range is going to look much better. We’ve got a switch in the middle, which does the bench top lights, which are also quite old, and we’re going to replace them.

That’s the old ones on the left, new LED ones on the right, so swap them over as well.

That’s the other power point I’ll do, Clipsal Saturn again, and the bench top lights are controlled by a LED driver. It can be hard to find sometimes, but I suspect it’s going to be behind there where the light switch is.

Okay, we’ll get started on the power point with the switch for the benchtop lights first. Just going to check the power is dead, across the active and neutral terminal, active and earth terminal. Just check the lights. You can see the lights aren’t coming on, so obviously, no power going to them.

The only tricky thing with the Saturn Power Point is the cutout needs to be bigger. So hopefully, this one is. Otherwise, you can’t really do it because it’s a bit hard to cut marble once it’s already installed.

So, now we want to find the old transformer because they’re going to replace that with the new one for the LEDs. Yeah, I can see it in there. Just getting…there we go.

So, the old Halogen transformer, we’re going to swap for the LED1 that’s going to run the sunning benchtop lights. All transformers will have the 240-volt primary power going into it, then you’ll have the low voltage coming out the other side.

So, 240 goes in one side, 12 volts comes out the other side which then feeds the LED benchtop lights. Don’t get them in the wrong way.

And that just goes back behind the wall in the cavity. And then we’re going to have a look at this power point.

All transformers will have the 240-volt primary power go into it and you’ll have the low voltage coming out the other side.

So, 240 goes in one side, 12 volts comes out the other side which then fades the LED bench top lights. Don’t get them around the wrong way.

There we go. That one’s finished.

So, now we’ll terminate the bench top lights and then see what it looks like. Here you can see the old halogen low-voltage bench top lights which was controlled by the transformer that we found behind the power point.

So, now we’re going to install the new LED version, which is controlled by the new LED driver. These ones are made by Sunny Lighting or SAL, and they are going to look a lot smarter than the old ones…

It’s low-voltage lighting so, you don’t have to be as thorough with your testing as you would when it’s 240 volts. We still know it’s dead because I haven’t turned anything back on, anyway.

Similar to the Slimline Power Points, the tricky part with the bench top lights can be the cutout size. So, you may have to alter this a little bit for the new ones to fit in.

So, the hole cutout size was relatively close, so not too much hassle, and that’s it!

Two more of them to do and then we’ll turn everything back on. We now have the Saturn Power Points. Connect it up and power it up, as well. Just plug the tester in, everything looks fine there.

See, we’ve got the switch in the middle, which bubuildshe lights up there. If we turn that on, it should lighten them up. And that’s it, all done.

So, it was a Clipsal Saturn Power Point range and the LED bench top lights were SAL Lighting.

 

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